A war, lots of spare time and a 3d printer...

JakeBullet70

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3d printed case I found online and heavly modified and built out of spare parts I had around. Raspberry Pi 3 as a retro machine. So far DOSBOX and an Atari ST images but there are many more.

dos.jpg
dos1.jpg
 

Cableguy

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Come and showcase it in our FB Group!!!
 

hatzisn

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3d printed case I found online and heavly modified and built out of spare parts I had around. Raspberry Pi 3 as a retro machine. So far DOSBOX and an Atari ST images but there are many more.

View attachment 165200View attachment 165202

I have a same approach while designing cases for my B4R projects. I got completely free from having to deal with screws etc. Now I am measuring with a caliber the dimensions of the PCB and I create a "drawer" case where I slide it in and it fits in there perfectly and steady. Can I ask you something? For me (after some experiments) the "drawer" dimension has to be by 0.2 mm higher than the PCB's in order for it to fit neatly - if I want it to be strict then 0.2 becomes 0.1. Is this valid in all 3d printers or just mine?
 
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Cableguy

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I have a same approach while designing cases for my B4R projects. I got completely free from having to deal with screws etc. No I am measuring with a caliber the dimensions of the PCB and I create a "drawer" case where I slide it in and it fits in there perfectly and steady. Can I ask you something? For me (after some experiments) the "drawer" dimension has to be by 0.2 mm higher than the PCB's in order for it to fit neatly - if I want it to be strict then 0.2 becomes 0.1. Is this valid in all 3d printers or just mine?
I would say it's a rule of thumb in the 3d printing, assuming a nozzle of 0.4mm
 

JakeBullet70

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I have a same approach while designing cases for my B4R projects. I got completely free from having to deal with screws etc. No I am measuring with a caliber the dimensions of the PCB and I create a "drawer" case where I slide it in and it fits in there perfectly and steady. Can I ask you something? For me (after some experiments) the "drawer" dimension has to be by 0.2 mm higher than the PCB's in order for it to fit neatly - if I want it to be strict then 0.2 becomes 0.1. Is this valid in all 3d printers or just mine?

Its pretty well for all printers but... You can have it perfect and print on another printer and it could be off just a hair or it could be fine. Prusa printers though are some of the most accurate printers out there. (they self calibrate) Wish I had one, LOL

Also depending on your slicer there is a setting called "precision walls", that prints the outer wall 1st and is more accurate. Its turned off by default as it can interfer with overhangs. There are some other setting too for more accuracy but they are turned off as SPEED is the big selling point at the moment.

The design here though is broken up on purpose to fit any size keyboards by just printing a 'spacer' in the middle to widen it. So... If I was to change to a wider keyboard I would print the 'spacer' and reuse the left and right sides. I would not have to print a new case. I myself designed the panels for the sides and back as replacible so say if I wanted to add a USB port to the left side of the case I would just have to print a new side panel, not a new case.

I wrote this program a while back.
That might help is some of your designs.
Remember though, its never going to be 100% perfect and some post processing is acceptible and OK.
 
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